“…and all you touch, and all you see
Is all your life will ever be.”
In July 2024, Paul McSorely invited me (Brian Shannon) to explore a new route on the Xwexwsélkn (HUK-sul-ken) Wall above Spetch Creek. Paul has already developed two other routes on the wall, and Dub Side of the Moon is now the most moderate. Details for the approach as well as Paul’s other routes can be found in Kevin McLane’s Alpine Select guidebook.
Trip Report
Paul and I had a leisurely departure from Squamish, and after a stop at the cafe in Pemberton, we arrived at the Valentine Lake trail head by mid morning. With overnight packs and a drill kit, it took us about three hours to reach the base of the wall. While the approach involves a little bush bashing, we did some trail work to improve access. By coastal climbing standards it’s a breeze!
After a short siesta, Paul and I scoped out an inspiring line on the right side of the wall. Mostly following a broad arete, it looked as though numerous splitter cracks connected multiple lines up the face. We decided to explore the wall that evening hoping to begin establishing our line.
A brief pitch through snow and easy grooves took us to the base of steeper, vertical climbing. I led out the second pitch trying to connect a sporty line on a dyke formation that featured an exciting and slightly spicy 5.11 horizontal dead point. However, this line led to more chossy rock. While following, Paul cleaned some cracks and found a more compact and protectable line that kept the grade at 5.10. This pitch ended in some wonderful hand cracks up to a semi-hanging belay.
Paul took the lead on the third pitch up a steep head wall. From below, we could see a line of varying cracks, but it was tough to tell how difficult the climbing would be. Luckily, as Paul entered what looked like the crux fingers section, he found a wonderful smattering of footholds and incuts. With much excitement, Paul made his way up to a large ledge to belay.
Pitch four followed flakes and cracks up a short overhanging wall. Again, what looked like it could quickly become harder climbing, revealed itself to be 5.10. This pitch offered lofty views back down to the Birken valley, which was now darkening with arms of shadow as the sun dipped towards ridge lines. While we had originally planned only to spend the afternoon scoping out the wall, we both knew without any spoken words that everything was going too well to turn around now.
I quickly re-racked and set out on what looked like a beautiful pitch of climbing. Following a variety of cracks with the odd technical move led me to the base of a tips finger crack that would surely up the difficulty of our moderate route significantly. Luckily, just to the left, a more moderate crack took me up behind a massive protruding flake. A bit more moderate climbing took us over the top of the wall just as the first kiss of alpen-glow began to shine.
Pulling out the drill for the first time, Paul and I quickly began setting a bolted rap line down the wall. With a small bit of scrubbing on our way, we established a bolted descent line with a single 60m rope back to the snow before dark. A short walk back to camp, a quick dinner, and we settled in for a perfect open bivy by the lake.
The Xwexwsélkn Wall is a wonderful addition to the West Coast climbing scene. I haven’t done Paul’s other routes, but the area is surely worthy of continued traffic. With a reasonable approach and moderate routes, the area would be an excellent choice for local climbers looking for quick alpine rock routes without having to travel far and deal with crowds.
Route Description
Route: D, 5.10c, 150m, 5 pitches
Rack: Double rack .3-3, nuts, and a 60m rope. (The top rap is 32m but is manageable)
Approach: As for Xwexwsélkn Wall in Kevin McLane’s Alpine Select. Park as per Valentine Lake trail and follow Spetch creek to a slide path at the head of the valley, then talus to the base of the wall. 3 hours.
Pitch 1: 5.6
Pitch 2: 5.9
Pitch 3: 5.10c
Pitch 4: 5.10a
Pitch 5: 5.10b
Comments